Porthole screens

All portholes on Colorado Cowboy (GH37 fka Lo Que Se A) have screens glued onto an exterior retainer ring.  I  can’t find any manufacturuer info on the portholes flanges and haven’t wanted to take one apart to investigate further.  Anyone know  who manufactured these portholes and if new screens are available,  or were the screens a later add on?

10 thoughts on “Porthole screens

  1. We just became members. Too bad I hadn’t read this post before replacing the screen on one of our portals. The job came out okay, but with these tips, I’m sure the next screens will be easier and better looking. Thanks.

  2. On ours, the original copper screens were soldered to the plated (nickel?) brass rings. Used a propane torch and a steel putty knife to melt the old solder and scrape off the broken screen-wire ends while the solder was liquid. The rings were somewhat pitted with corrosion, and heating them with the torch didn’t make them look any better, so rather than trying to polish I just painted them white. Found a vendor on e-bay selling small quantities of copper screen. To attach the new screen to the rings, I used 5200 sealant and made a jig to hold the rings compressed against the screen while the sealant cured. Got a clean radius and removed the excess screen wire with a belt sander. It was a multi-step process over several days, but my total cost was less than $50 for all 6 screens.

    • When you glue the new screens onto the old rings, be sure to line up the rectangular grid so that the screen mesh looks horizontal when the rings are replaced on the portholes. I didn’t. Next time I’ll be more careful.

  3. IMPORTANT! I realized I left out a step. You must place some waxed paper on top of the screen before you put the weight on top of it otherwise you will glue the weight as well as the screen to the flange. I used a plastic cutting board as the weight. I also put waxed paper under the flange first in case I dripped some epoxy to prevent the whole job from adhering to the work surface. The original screen was aluminum I believe. It didn’t do well in the salt environment. I’m pretty sure the fiberglass screen will do much better.

  4. OH also, the flanges are easily removed by loosening the Allen screws. Just don’t drop them or the flange in the water. It will not float.

  5. Shortly after I purchased my GH 37 last Spring I noticed that several of my porthole screens had deteriorated. I removed on to see how difficult it would be to replace it. I laid the screen on a flat surfaced and using a palm sander I sanded lightly all around the surface until I saw shiny brass. The remnants of the aluminum screen were gone. I then went to the store with the helpful hardware man and bought a roll of black fiberglass screen. I cut a piece of the screen bigger than the flange and using fast setting epoxy laid a small bead around the now shiny surface of the flange, laid the screen on top with no wrinkles and placed a flat weight larger then the flange on top. In an hour the epoxy was set. I then used the palm sander to lightly sand along the edge of the flange which removed the excess screen material and The screen was like new. I hope this helps.

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